Holiday Crunch Time

December rolled around just like it does every year…Money was tight, so I decided to make gifts this year for some special ladies. I had the fabric on hand to sew some Christmas table runners and I wanted to make about 12.  Many people would ask, how can you get all of that done in such a short period of time?  Well, I have a few tricks that I have fine-tuned over the years that I would like to share with you in hopes that you can find something that might help you overcome your own Holiday crunch.

1. Select a simple project that looks complicated!  This is just as easy as it sounds.  There are many projects out there that are easy to assemble and sew, and turn out looking great.  My table runner patterns utilized rectangle and squares, there are no angle or curves, so that speeds cutting time and sewing.

2. Compute approximately how much time it will take to make one complete project. This will give you a basis to make a timeline so that you can keep track of your progress.  I figured that it would take me about one hour to cut and piece the top of the runner, and a second hour to quilt and complete it.  That way I knew that I would need to find 24 hours in the next three weeks to complete my twelve projects.  If you know that you’re not going to be able to finish the projects, then cut down the total number of projects that you want to complete. OR scrap the initial plan and move to Plan B.  Life happens and the best laid plans need to be flexible.

3. Use a rotary cutter and cut out in quantity.  I decided to complete 3 runners at a time… so I cut out all the pieces for the three that I am working on and they will basically be the same, though no one else will know it is not an ‘original’.

 4. Select only one color of thread and wind 2 bobbins before beginning.  Thread changes take time, so I select the best color – usually one that matches the border and backing fabric.

 5. Chain or speed sew your pieces together, by sewing from one piece right onto the next piece, going back to clip the threads between each after the sewing has been completed.  I shorten my stitch length to 2.0 when piecing the top so I don’t have to worry about threads coming out.

 6. Sew all the flat seams you can before going to the ironing board, pressing and trimming everything all at once, then back to the machine to stitch the next item together. 

 7. Lay out your backing fabric, right side down (enough for all three), then your batting, then lay your completed piece top right side up as the third layer, leaving about 1” between them.  Pin through all three layers for quilting now, then cut each of them out leaving ½ “ all the way around.  All three are ready to go to the machine for quilting now!

8. Use “stitch-in-the-ditch” quilting. It’s much easier if you have a walking foot when working with layers of fabric.  Also a zipper foot helps you to stitch much more accurately in the ditch without jumping into the top seam.  Be sure to lengthen your stitch to 3.0 when quilting.

9. Cut out enough binding fabric for all three runners. Sew all strips together into one long binding piece.

10. Use “stitch-in-the-ditch” technique to finish the binding.  When I have been really pressed for time and simply didn’t have time to hand sew the back of the binding, this was an acceptable alternative.

11.  Utilize Continuous Quilting.  If you don’t have to lift your presser foot to stop and start, don’t!  When you’re working with square or rectangular shapes you can put your needle down at the end of the row, turn your fabric and continue stitching. This saves a lot of time by not needing to backstitching and clip threads.

12.  Be sure to use the time at your machine to think about your friendships and pray for the people that you are sewing gifts for! 

Don’t let this become a time of tense frustration, you don’t want to lose sight of the real reason for the season!  You can combine speed and still enjoy the sewing experience.  Happy Holidays!

My two granddaughters, Ruth and Hannah were recently dedicated at church.  I was thrilled that my daughter was able to adjust the gown she was dedicated in to fit the youngest one, Hannah. 

I designed it with a high yoke abd puffy sleeves with elastic and lace edging, detailing the yoke with cute buttons, beading lace across the yoke and over the armholes, and pink ribbon trim.  There were three layers to the skirt with the slip underneath, a straight underskirt with an eyelet flounce and the top layer with a wide curved flounce.  The flounces were all set off with the beading lace and pink ribbon.  The length was perfect, so Corrie only needed to  extend the Velcro back and make the elastic in the sleeves a bit longer.  She finished up by embroidering Hannah’s name and dedication date on the back underskirt.

Corrie designed this dress and pinafore for Ruth, her oldest daughter.  The square necked pinafore with machine embroidery and lace shaping on the front, reaches the waist and adds lots of  lace edged gathers around the armholes.  The band sports regular sewing machine stitches in the light pink. 

The dress has a sweet lace edged color, puffy gathered sleeves and full skirt, with a scalloped and lace trimmed bottom edge.   She used lace insertions and machine embroidery with hearts, flowers and bows throughout for a darling outfit.   Beautiful dresses for a very special day.

My daughter, Corrie, recently completed dresses for the Lavendar Festival.  This is the occasion when they take their family picture out in the beautiful fields.   Her style this year for the darling dresses was to add an insert, such as you would see in smocking, using instead the embroidery stitches on her machine.

Most everyone has machine embroidery stitches on their machines, which we seldom use.  The main thing to remember when doing embroidery is to use some type of stabilizer on the back.  It can be as simple as typing paper (you'll need to change your needle more often), or a purchased stabilizer.  We prefer a washaway stabilizer so we can dip it in water and its gone, rather than having to pick it out from behind the embroidery stitches.

The first step is to determine the width you would like the band to finish.  This will vary according to the size of your child.  Cut the band fabric about 2" wider than finished size and 2" longer than the bodice front waistline width.  Draw your lines onto the band with a wahout marker.  Stitch the middle embroidery first - which should be a balanced stitch.  Then stitch the same embroidery on each side of the middle.  If these are not balanced, be sure to either reverse the stitch or begin from the opposite end of your strip so the two will look balanced.  You can make as many rows and use different colors to pick up the colors in the dress.

She only cuts a front collar, making the pattern directly from the front bodice piece, exactly the same size and shape.  She shapes the scalloped edge of the collar by drawing her design with washout marker onto her fabric, and using the machine scallop embroidery pattern with  a wide zig-zag.  Cut and lay together, 2 pieces of collar fabric at least 2" longer and 2" wider than the finished size.  With washout marker, draw the shoulder and neckline cutting edge, and the shape you have chosen for the scalloped edge.  Stitch out the scallops.  Fray check from the bottom side.  After the fray check is dry, with scissors, carefully cut around the bottom edge.  The collar can then be laid over the bodice front and sewn into the shoulder and neckline seams.  You have a darling collar, that doesn't flip up on you.

Have fun with your sewing...don't be afraid to try something new.  Learn to use all your machine has to offer you.

If you do not have an embroidery machine and would like to personalize your quilts, may I suggest a couple alternatives.  Back in March, I promised you pictures and information on my scripture quilt from which I purchased preprinted panels from Canyon Creek Fabrics (208-937-2631) at Sewing Expo this spring.  Along with the scriptures, they have several other themed panels.

As an alternative to purchasing panels, you can create your own designs on your home computer with fonts, clipart, and pictures.  June Tailor has computer printer fabric, with either white or muslin backgrounds, that you can feed through your inkjet or laser printer. The fabric is adhered to a paper backing, and you can just peel it off after printing.  Complete instructions are included. You may purchase this printer fabric at most any fabric store.

I have also successfully used the HP iron-on transfers.  They work beautifully, and I believe give a better finish, plus you have the added advantage of being able to apply them to any fabric background.  I purchase my transfer paper from Staples – I’m sure other office supply stores carry it as well.

The transfers and computer paper make wonderful quilt projects for students…who are into the computer!  And what fun it is to design the rest of the quilt around the blocks – which can be cut to any shape!  Just take a piece of graph paper and start drawing!  Cut the pieces to size (one square equals 1 inch- or whatever to make it the size you want it to finish) and just remember to add ¼” seam allowance on all the edges of the piece before cutting.

 You can truly create a one of a kind, personalized quilt that will be cherished forever!

It was about 10 years ago that my daughter and I discovered heirloom sewing..so beautiful and classy.  Corrie loved it so much that I made her an heirloom graduation dress, and she made her own heirloom wedding gown. She's been married 3 years now and lives 8 hours away.  I was really missing sewing with her, so jumped on the chance to share this love with Tatum.  Though I plan to put projects and instructions into a couple of  e-books, I thought I'd wet your appetite by sharing some items and techniques you might want to try. 

Traditionally all heirloom projects were created on 100% cotton batiste, a very fine, lightweight fabric, in either white or eggshell.  If I am wanting to make a true heirloom, I purchase this fabric (from Martha Pullen Company).  This is what Corrie used for her wedding dress.  However, today's modern fabrics do have their advantages,  so I found a 50/50 cotton-polyester batiste to make her graduation dress out of.  It was of course, less expensive, but the greatest advantage was the wrinkle factor.  We were constantly pressing the wedding dress throughout the
day.  Ugh!    Sew, I'm not totally sold on traditional fabrics-I don't sew by hand, which would be the traditional way, and I love to use today's threads, shiny sulky's and such to create lovely pieces, which is not the traditional way.  That leaves the fabric decision up to you...as long as you are using a nice lightweight, fine fabric your projects will turn out beautifully.

Corrie's Graduation Dress

Corrie's Wedding Dress

Lace Shaping Block

Below are some pictures of the new piano cover that a couple of us from our church collaborated on. I sewed the cover and another lady did the quilting. She was able to quilt the actual music from Amazing Grace around the side of the cover. The pictures don't do it justice but, hopefully, you can get the idea.